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January 23-29-2006

By Bob Lape

ANTICA VENEZIA
**

396 West St.
(212) 229-0606

Wines: 120 choices
Noise level: Serene
Price Range: $16.95-$36.95
Reservations: Recommended

This "old Venice" is new to West Street at West Tenth Street and comes complete with a fireplace and sunsets over New Jersey.

It's owned and hosted by seasoned professionals Alex Selimaj and Gianni Goci. With an ebullient waitstaff, they lay on door-to-door warmth and make dining special with tableside finishing of many dishes.

Chef Francesco Patrice struts his stuff with pasta tasting plates enabling guests to sample pappardelle in lush mushroom sauce, gnocchi in tangy pesto, and fettuccine tossed with tomato and mozzarella. There is Venetian finesse in the risotto dishes, meats and fish.

Antica Venezia caps the meal with complimentary sips of house-made grappa, syrupy limoncello and smooth sambuca cream.